Travel

A Week in Buenos Aires and Mendoza, Argentina

PALERMO

Earlier this year, Conor and I spent a week in Argentina and aside from a few posts on instagram, I never posted anything on my blog. Reema put a story together for The Everygirl, but today, I’m finally sharing some of my favorite photos, spots, and memories from our first international trip together.

The city is so full of culture, and is a mix of very poor neighborhoods, stop-you-in-your-tracks architecture with both a South American and Parisian flair, incredible food, and some of the best Malbec you’ll ever have. Today I’m talking about some of my favorite sites, restaurants, what I’d skip, and the things I wish we hand’t skipped, too. Here we go.

Hotel Pulitzer in Buenos Aires, Argentina

After a 15 hour travel day, Conor and I checked in to Hotel Pulitzer in the heart of Buenos Aires. I loved this hotel for a number of reasons. First, it’s  super budget friendly (I’m talking less than $100 / night), is centrally located, the staff was really nice, there’s free breakfast if you’re into that which, who isn’t, it’s a beautiful hotel, and there’s a rooftop pool.

danielle moss argentina

danielle moss argentina

danielle moss buenos aires argentina

San Telmo

Every article we read said to visit San Telmo on a Sunday, but I’d actually recommend going on Saturday since it’s a lot less crowded. We could barely make it through the crowds Sunday morning and felt a little overwhelmed, but the following Saturday was perfect. I also found some great trinkets to take home, including a handmade leather bound notebook and two vintage brass pineapples.

danielle moss buenos aires argentina

danielle moss buenos aires argentina danielle moss buenos aires argentina

danielle moss buenos aires argentina

Palermo

This was one of my favorite neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. Full of charm–cafes, pretty shops, beautiful buildings, and cobblestone streets. We visited Palermo a few times, to walk around during the day, and for both lunch and dinner.

Favorite spots:


Olsen. The food wasn’t amazing but the decor is really pretty (Scandinavian), so I’d stop in for a glass of wine.
MALBA museum
Siamo Nel Forno. The owner’s daughter was our waitress, he personally checked on every table, and the pizza and wine were fantastic.
Casa Cavia. So much gold and marble.
Paul French Gallery. Basically a South American Jayson Home.

danielle moss buenos aires argentina

danielle moss buenos aires argentina

danielle moss buenos aires argentina danielle moss buenos aires argentina

danielle moss buenos aires argentina

danielle moss buenos aires argentina

danielle moss buenos aires argentina

Steak, Wine, and Empanadas

Our two favorite spots were La Cabrera and La Brigada (which we went back to a second time). The food is incredible and wine is cheap! Dinner for two with a good bottle of wine and entrees would come in at about $60-75 total. You could easily reduce the cost of the bill by sharing an entree and appetizer.

 

danielle moss buenos aires argentina

danielle moss buenos aires argentina

The Parisian Influence

Beautiful, perfect, and so worth seeing. I’d walk through Recoleta, near the Four Seasons Hotel, and then head up to the cemetery. It felt a lot like a stroll through the streets of Paris!

danielle moss buenos aires argentina danielle moss buenos aires argentina

La Recoleta Cemetery

This cemetery’s 4691 above-ground vaults are gorgeous, monumental pieces of art. I wasn’t sure how much time I’d want to spend there, but could have easily spent hours walking around. It houses Argentina’s elite, from presidents to war heroes, and notably, the grave of Eva Perón. I’d skip the market outside the cemetery–it was nothing compared to San Telmo.
danielle moss buenos aires argentina

Favorite Date Spots: Floreria Atlantico and Milion

Conor found our two favorite date spots, and the nights we went to Floreria Atlantico and Milion were easily my two favorite nights on the trip. I didn’t take any photos at Milion, but it’s an old mansion converted to a bar, and definitely worth seeing. There’s a DJ and lights all over the walls, so it’s not the spot to visit when you’re in the mood for something low key.

Then there’s Floreria Atlantico, which you enter through a beautiful little flower shop and walk downstairs to the bar through a secret door. I ordered some French macaron cocktail with whipped cream on it which was maybe the greatest thing ever and aside from the neon lights and flowers, was probably the highlight of my evening. Aside from my date, of course.

danielle moss buenos aires argentina

danielle moss buenos aires argentina

Mendoza

We stayed at Casa De Uco which was over an hour by car from the airport, so almost everything we did was at the hotel. You could easily visit Casa De Uco, not leave for a week, and have an incredible time. We rode horses, enjoyed a wine tasting, took a cooking class outside, had lunch in the middle of a vineyard, and drank lots of wine. There were 3 occasions that we left the hotel. The first, for dinner at Francia Mallmann’s Siete Fuegos, a hike in the Andes mountains, and for a a wine tasting and tour at a nearby vineyard.

danielle moss mendoza argentina danielle moss mendoza argentina

 

danielle moss mendoza argentina

danielle moss mendoza argentina

danielle moss mendoza argentina

danielle moss mendoza argentina

danielle moss mendoza argentina

danielle moss mendoza argentina

danielle moss mendoza argentina

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CASA DE UCO 19   741A5491 741A5454 741A5444

What I’d do differently

Skip El Sanjuanino for empanadas and order one or two with dinner anywhere but there. Also avoid Cafe Tortoni. They were the only spots we didn’t like in all of Buenos Aires–terrible food and very, very touristy.

The Argentine Experience was fun, but a little gimmicky for me, so if you’re on a budget, I’d skip this or look into an actual cooking class. I didn’t have a bad time but I’m not sure I’d recommend it. I thought we’d spend more time cooking, but we only got to roll empanadas, dip a cookie in dulce de leche, and learn how to say how you want your steak cooked.

Do not travel to Argentina during Carnivale if you want to experience what BA is really like. We spent one more day in town after Mendoza and had so much more fun once it had come to an end.

Cabs are pretty cheap and easy, and it’s an extremely walkable city.

Argentine iced coffee is top notch.

I loved our trip but if I could change one part of where we visited, we would have seen Patagonia or Iguazu falls. Argentina is a huge country, so every add-on is like a trip from LA to Chicago, and it would have meant lugging backpacking gear, so we decided to save the time and money and didn’t go. It’s so spread out and  looking back, I would have made it work.

Have any questions, comments, or advice on things to do and see in Tuscany, Florence, and Rome? I’m leaving in 3 weeks!

  • I love that Paul made your list of favorites! Also great tips – I am dying to go back to experience it again 🙂

  • Whitley

    Great advice on Buenos Aires. I’m heading to Argentina this fall so I’ll definitely bookmark this post!

    Enjoy Tuscany! If you have time, take the train to Lucca. It’s a beautiful fortified city about an hour’s drive/1.5 hour train outside of Florence. You should check out I Raddi for dinner in Florence. Excellent food and the chef/owner is great! The Uffizi gallery and sunset at the Piazzale Michelangelo were also highlights of my trip.

  • Whitney Schmidt

    I went to Rome on my Honeymoon! Eat as much Cacio e Pepe as possible and this is by far the best gelato:

    http://www.gelateriadeigracchi.it/

    Other highlights: https://whitneyinchicago.wordpress.com/2011/06/19/cacio-e-pepe/

  • Brittany

    Beautiful photos! I’m inspired to visit!

  • Beautiful pictures! I grew up in Buenos Aires (Palermo neighborhood) so I really enjoyed this post.

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